Cannes, Done Properly

There is a version of Cannes that belongs to the festival — the red carpet, the yacht-clogged harbour, the lobby of the Carlton so dense with industry that you cannot cross it without overhearing a deal being made. It is spectacular, in the way that a Formula One race is spectacular: thrilling to observe, not especially conducive to pleasure. Then the last screening ends, the boats leave, and Cannes becomes itself again. Cannes without the festival is the version worth knowing. And even during it, if you have arranged things correctly, you can move through the city at a remove from its excesses — present for the energy, insulated from the chaos. Where to stay The conversation begins, as it always has, with the Carlton. Opened in 1913, the Carlton is Cannes' most mythologised address — its Belle Époque façade and Croisette position helped define the Riviera fantasy for generations. Now operating as a Regent Hotel following a thorough remodel, it has shed none of its authority and gained considerably in comfort. The sea-view suites are the ones worth specifying — the balconies face the Bay of Cannes and the morning light on the water is, frankly, a reason to stay in bed longer than is strictly necessary. The private beach below is yours to claim by ten. Claim it early. Carlton, Cannes Photo: Hollywood Reporter For those who find the Carlton's position at the centre of things too exposed, the Hôtel Martinez — the Art Deco landmark redesigned by Pierre-Yves Rochon — has hosted the Cannes Film Festival jury dinner since the 1990s, while balancing Riviera glamour with a slightly more relaxed register than its neighbours. It sits further along the Croisette, which means less foot traffic past your terrace and a beach club that, outside festival weeks, functions as one of the most civilised places to spend an afternoon on the entire coast. Hôtel Martinez Photo: cntraveller.com Where to eat La Palme d'Or, inside the Martinez, has been reimagined by Chef Jean Imbert into something cinematically immersive — the menu crafted to resemble a film script, dishes presented like storyboards, coat-check receipts styled as old-fashioned movie tickets. The terrace offers panoramic v…